Sunday, October 18

Swatches: An Esoteric Science

I started The Sweet Pea Coat for a christmas present.
For all garments I swatch and I almost swatch properly.

What is swatching properly?



My understanding is:
1. Knit a 6" inch square. How many stitches will be about 6 inches? If your gauge is 20 stitches=4" then 30 stitches should get you a 6 inch square. 1 1/2 times the number of stitches equaling 4 inches.

2. Knit your swatch with a garter boarder by knittig for 2 rows. Then start the stitch pattern noted in your directions. Knit the first and last 2 stitches. Knit till swatch is about 5". Knit the last two rows.

3. Cast-off and wash and dry your swatch the same way you will wash and dry your garment. Then measure you stitches.

This is my reality:



I do cast on 1 1/2 times the stitches need for 4" gauge.
I do garter ridges because I hate dealing with the curling edges.

Then my short cuts take over.

I knit about 3" and then take a measurement of my stitches per inch. If I am on gauge I would do a few more rows, cast off and do the washing and drying.

But what if I don't have gauge?
I knit 2 rows which creates a ridge so I know when I changed my needles and then I go up or down needle a size to get the right gauge.

I repeat the above until I have gauge. Cast off and wash and remeasure.



Of course that sounds like a lot but it is worth the hour or so to have a good chance of a fitted garment.

Here is where knitting a swatch leaves the Scientific realm and moves into the Esoteric side of things.

I have no good explanation for why a swatch doesn't put you on the right track all the time. In the perfect knitting world it would.

You have given your time and energy to making friends with your new yarn. You have married the perfect needle with the yarn and the pattern. All should go swimmingly as far as measurements go. But then for no good reason the science of "stitches per inch" leads your project astray.

After knitting a few inches of the back of the jacket the measurements for the width is not correct.



What? Not the right measurements??
The right number of stitches? YES
The right gauge? YES
But it is not the right measurement?? OMG
The back is not even close to being the right measurement. It is 2" too small. 16" instead of 18 1/2".



Could I block it to fit? Yes.
But I really don't want to. This is a jacket and is going to be worn over clothing. I want it to have enough ease.

So Now What???
Cry?
Put the project in time out?
Go clean the bathroom and scrub really hard?
Find another project that I can use the yarn on?
Start a scarf that doesn't need a swatch???
All of the above??

I really want to do this jacket and it is a Christmas present. I really need it done. So on I go..........
I did time it out for a few days.

I am not going up a needle size. I am on a size 13 and a 15 makes the fabric way to loose (why is there only 1/2 stitch difference between the 13 and the 15 needle? Those needles are very different. There is a bigger difference between the 11 and the 13. More esoterics at work).



Actually I would like to go down to a size 11. I like the fabric better. If I go down a needle size to a smaller gauge then I will have to adjust the numbers.
Oh no, the "M" word (math).

I swatched on a size 11. My gauge is tighter, the fabric looks better. How many stitches do I need to get the right number of inches for the size I am knitting? I do a little of that "M" stuff and.....

Oh look, it is the same cast-on number as two sizes bigger.



So this was my answer to the project.

I am knitting the Medium size and using the extra-small measurements.

It is working perfectly. It sounds tricky but really you just have to make sure you highlight the right numbers in the pattern and it is really a no brainer.



How do you Swatch??

No comments: